The Hillmer Travel Blog

Beavertails, Lobsters, and Ziggy’s Close Call on PEI

We rose bright and early to tackle the border into Canada.

Last exit before Canadian crossing!

We had heard horror stories about RVs getting singled out for thorough (inside every drawer, cabinet, etc.) inspections by border agents.

We were prepared for anything. We had our documentation organized and ready, to include vet records for the pets.

Jay wanted to conceal our fresh grapefruits in a place no border agent would want to look.

We did have a refrigerator full of fresh fruits and vegetables, which we knew could potentially be confiscated. We didn’t have much liquor, just Jay’s ingredients for his old fashioneds and a few beers. And we didn’t have any weapons (unless you count our attack cat as a weapon…)

To our surprise, Frankie decided to kick Ziggy out of the navigator seat. He just pushed Ziggy right out and made himself completely useless

The Canadian border agent stepped onto the first step of Tinkerbell, gave us all a good once-over, and asked a few standard questions. Then he asked if we had any alcohol.

Since the tariff situation erupted, local Canadians told us it’s hard for them to buy American bourbon and other spirits. Government-run liquor stores in Canada no longer offer American-made alcohol products. As a result, some people have resorted to going to American border towns, buying American spirits in bulk and surreptitiously transporting them over the border into Canada.

We told the Canadian border agent about our few bottles of bourbon and rye. He asked to see our collection of three half-full bottles, which we store in our tallest cabinet, located directly behind the driver’s seat. The agent asked why we stored our alcohol so close to the driver.

We never thought about that!

Satisfied that Tinkerbell’s driver hadn’t been imbibing (yet), the agent left Tinkerbell to do a short inspection of Leap and our basement storage areas. He then wished us a pleasant Canadian vacation and sent us on our way. The whole process lasted about five minutes.

He never asked to squeeze Jay’s grapefruits…

We entered Canada through the province of New Brunswick.

The first part of our Atlantic Canadian tour took us through New Brunswick and into Prince Edward Island (PEI).

PEI was on Jay’s “bucket list.” Ever since he saw “Anne of Green Gables” back in the 1980s, he’s dreamed of visiting Cavendish (the town in which Green Gables is set). Finally, he would see the place(s) of inspiration for author L.M. Montgomery’s timeless story.

Butt first, we needed to get to PEI. To do that, we had to cross the world’s longest (eight miles!) bridge over ice-covered water: the Confederation Bridge.

Tinkerbell smoothly sailed across Confederation Bridge!

Our uneventful trip across the bridge took about 10 minutes. Soon after, we found ourselves driving through field upon field of yellow flowers.

PEI’s largest industry is potato farming. In between potato plantings, farmers grow mustard as a cover crop. The mustard not only improves soil health; it is also a great way to fight the dreaded wireworm that infests potato crops. Mustard plants release a gas that essentially fumigates the soil and kills off the pesty wireworms.

Interspersed between the fields of yellow flowers were rivers of chocolate…

The “Chocolate River” got its nickname because heavy sedimentation and silt deposits give the Petitcodiac River a brown color. Chocolate is a much more appealing-sounding name than other things that are brown.

Before heading to our campground, we decided to take a quick detour south to visit the capital of PEI, Charlottetown, Founded in 1765 and named after Queen Charlotte, wife of King George III, the city was unceremoniously raided by American privateers during the American Revolution.

Charlottetown has a pristine boardwalk that spans open, wide swaths of waterfront and densely populated harbors teeming with restaurants and other businesses.

We parked by the boardwalk and took the dogs for a quiet stroll along the water.

The boardwalk was so charming that we decided to return with our bicycles the next day. It was getting late, so we hopped back into Tinkerbell and made our way to our campground in Cavendish.

This was the first campground we have encountered that rents “stagecoaches” for upscale “glamping” experiences.

A good night’s sleep was in order after accomplishing a smooth border crossing, driving across the world’s longest ice-water bridge, through fields of mustard and rivers of chocolate, and walking a beautiful boardwalk along Charlottetown Harbour.

We awoke the next day, and I took Ziggy for a long walk around the campground. We started to play in the dog park when he saw a sight he had never seen before. A kite!

This is the kite that caught Ziggy’s attention.

Ziggy was captivated with the kite and thought he might be able to catch it. He bolted full speed to catch the kite.

Unfortunately, he forgot he was in a dog park. He also forgot the dog park was enclosed by a fence made of rusty wire.

About halfway through the fence, he stopped.

Cold.

Full stop.

He froze. He couldn’t move one step further and he couldn’t move one step back without inflicting severe bodily harm to a very sensitive part of his anatomy.

One of the few times I’ve seen Ziggy stand still. Completely still. This sharp, rusty wire fence threatened to painfully relieve Ziggy of his masculinity.

I don’t know how we did it, but I managed to wriggle Ziggy out of the precarious situation without a scratch.

Ziggy promptly forgot all about the high-flying kite and terrifying fence ordeal when he spotted goats eating in a nearby pen.

What’s more dangerous? A butting goat or a rusty fence? Ziggy didn’t stick around to find out.

Following Ziggy’s adventures at the campground that morning, Jay and I packed up Leap and headed into Charlottetown, PEI’s capital city. It’s the largest city in PEI and has a population of about 40,000.

Unfortunately, Linda’s Coffee Shop wasn’t open when we were there 😦

A quick bit of history about PEI in general: the native people referred to their home as Abegweit. French colonists arrived in 1603 and called the island St. John’s. After losing the Seven Year War to Great Britain, St. John’s fell under British rule in 1758.

After some back and forth with the Motherland, PEI locals and the leaders across the pond agreed on re-naming the island “Prince Edward Island” in honor of Prince Edward Augustus, fourth son of King George III and Queen Charlotte.

Prince Edward never set foot in PEI, butt he served in the British Army and had been to Nova Scotia and Quebec. He was a visionary who saw the need for defenses to be installed in Charlottetown. He also put forth the idea of confederation for the Canadian provinces of the time and sowed the seeds for unifying the British, French, and native populaces of Canada by referring to everyone as simply, “Canadian.”

Charlottetown is a charming, lively waterfront city with good bicycling and walking paths.

Cow’s ice cream was a delicious appetizer!
St. Dunstan’s Roman Catholic Basilica was built between 1897-1907 and is an awe-inspiring sight in downtown Charlottetown.
The basilica is built in the High Victorian Gothic style and was severely damaged in a fire in 1913. The city’s residents rebuilt the cathedral, which was elevated to the status of a basilica in 1929 and is now the spiritual center for Catholicism in PEI.

PEI is a maritime province, surrounded by the Gulf of St. Lawrence. Charlottetown is located on Hillsborough Bay and boasts a deepwater harbor. We figured it would be a great place to enjoy a meal of fresh seafood, especially lobster!

Jay caught a lobster!
Lobster, lobster everywhere but not a single one to eat!

We found our way to a local restaurant on the water.

It had been years since we had fresh lobster rolls! PEI did not disappoint. The lobster rolls were delicious!!!

After lunching on fresh lobster, we craved dessert, of course!

Look at that cute tail! Since we had ice cream as an appetizer, we decided to try the renowned PEI dessert of beavertail. It was delicious!
Almost as good as ice cream! Beavertail is fried dough shaped like a beaver’s tail and is covered with a topping. We choose a simple cinnamon sugar topping.

We closed our first full day in PEI with watching a beautiful sunset from our campground in Cavendish.

Coming up: Jay gets to see Green Gables!


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3 responses to “Beavertails, Lobsters, and Ziggy’s Close Call on PEI”

  1. Ha! You’re right, Rick! Wonderful to hear from you!! 🙂

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  2. fpkinkel (null) Avatar
    fpkinkel (null)

    That’s some lobster! And one hell of a long way around to Viking territory…lol

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  3. Way to hide the grapefruit, Jay. I’m happy the crossing into Canada went well. The eight mile bridge sounds fun. There is a 7 mile bridge when heading to the Florida keys. Our boys liked that. The adventure continues. . .

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