The Hillmer Travel Blog

A Quick Stop in Halifax & Frankie’s Reign of Terror

My knowledge of Atlantic Canada, and Nova Scotia in particular, was pretty limited.

Halifax, the capitol of Nova Scotia, is the most populous municipality in Atlantic Canada.

Prior to our Summer of 2025 Tour, when I heard the words “Nova Scotia,” I had only two thoughts:

First, I thought of a delicious breakfast: Nova Scotia lox, which is a smoked salmon, on fresh bagels with cream cheese, ripe tomato, onion, and capers.

Second, I thought of old screen heartthrob Warren Beatty who callously broke poor singer/songwriter Carly Simon’s heart when he flew his “Learjet up to Nova Scotia to see the total eclipse of the sun.” I think Carly Simon was yesterday’s Taylor Swift when it comes to writing songs about ex-lovers.

The campground in Nova Scotia left a bit to be desired, especially after the 5-star (to us) scenic campground in New Brunswick. In Nova Scotia, we were packed in like sardines. Our scenic views were of the RVs parked on either side of us.
The campground has an odd dual-purpose sign at the dump station. Contrary to what I surmised, it doesn’t mean “No Swimming in the RV Dump Station”; it means “No Swimming” in the runoff pond hidden deep behind the bushes.

Since it was early afternoon, and we only had two nights in Nova Scotia, we hopped into Leap for a drive into Halifax.

When time is short and you want to get a quick lay of the land in a new city, a sightseeing city tour, like on one of the hop-on-hop-off buses, is an efficient solution.

The Harbour Hopper caught our eye; we quickly jumped in line to board the next vessel.
We lucked out as we had arrived just in time to catch the last boarding of the day!

Usually, we choose land-based tour buses to get a quick feel for a city, butt the idea of seeing Halifax from both the land and the water intrigued us since Halifax is on the Atlantic Ocean.

Yes, it was kitschy, butt we had a good time laughing with our young, 23-year-old captain and his narrator. They gave us a quick, glossed-over history of the city while cracking a groaner joke every minute or two.

A Short History of Halifax

In 1746, King George II ordered Edward Cornwallis, a career military officer, member of the aristocracy, and Governor of Nova Scotia, to establish Halifax as a new capitol in Nova Scotia.

Edward Cornwallis fought in Scotland, helping to squash the Jacobite Rebellion of 1745.

Cornwallis accomplished the mission and named the settlement after the 2nd Earl of Halifax, a British statesman who oversaw commerce in the Americas and was known as “the father of the colonies.”

After sharing the history of Halifax, our duck captain drove us straight into the Atlantic Ocean.

We skimmed across the water like a pontoon boat.
Halifax has a deep maritime history: this is where the Titanic, in 1912, sunk after hitting an iceberg 700 nautical miles east of Halifax.
While we were in open waters, the captain let all the children on the ride take turns “steering” the ship. He let the biggest kid “drive” the duck up to the launch dock in Halifax Harbour.

Following our duck tour, we ate at a local diner (tempting as it was, we did not have duck for dinner) and returned to Tink and the boys. For the first time in our travels, I suffered from food poisoning and had a long night praying to the porcelain god known as Tink’s toilet 😦

By morning I felt fine, and we got ready for our bike ride through downtown Halifax. Riding a bike is truly one of the best ways to see a city as you get to cover a lot of ground, not get tied up in traffic, and get to experience city landmarks up close.

We started our ride at the Canadian Museum of Immigration. The Museum traces more than 400 years of Canadian immigration history. This spot is where most immigrants entered Canada from 1928-1971.
We rode to the boardwalk in downtown Halifax.

The Boardwalk in downtown is the “city center” as it is lined with shops, restaurants, and offers lots of different activities on the water. We had perfect weather… the views were beautiful!

Jay sat for a few minutes on the Boardwalk and watched boats pass by.
We admired the architecture of this dramatic glass building reflecting the harbor waters into points that touch the sky.
At 2.5 miles, the Halifax Boardwalk spans the length of the waterfront and is one of the longest city boardwalks in the world.

After the boardwalk, we rode through city streets and stopped in the shade of some trees in front of a historic-looking building

The Province House is the seat of the provincial government in Halifax. The statue is of Joseph Howe, a Nova Scotian journalist and politician. He owned a newspaper and ran influential stories about Nova Scotian politicians pocketing public money. He was charged with seditious libel and represented himself at trial. The judge wanted him charged (and sentenced) but a jury of his peers found him not guilty. He went on to run for public office and later became lieutenant governor of Nova Scotia.

A nice gentleman noticed us relaxing in the shade and came over to chat. He worked in the Province House and invited us to take a tour of the building.

The Province House was built in 1811-1819 using sandstone from Nova Scotia. The British Palladian architectural style is reflected in the symmetry and uniformity throughout the building.

Since we had taken so many tours of the U.S. White House and Congressional buildings over the years, we were interested in touring another nation’s legislative buildings.

Province House is Canada’s oldest seat of government. The Nova Scotia House of Assembly has met in the building every year since 1819.

One of our first stops in the House was the historic Red Chamber.

Nova Scotia’s Legislative Council, the “upper house” of the legislature, used to hold deliberations in the Red Chamber. The Council held both executive and judicial roles during the young Province’s history. After Nova Scotia established a Supreme Court in 1754, in true government fashion, the Council (whose members were tenured and paid for life) didn’t get smaller or cheaper, it grew by replacing its judicial role with legislative functions.

However, after 150+ years of fierce debate (in the Red Chamber, I assume), the Council, through some fancy political maneuvers, voted to abolish itself in 1928. And that’s how the Red Chamber went from hosting legislative deliberations to hosting ceremonial events and royal visits, to include the visit by the Honorable Jay Hillmer.

Jay is standing in front of the Red Chamber. You can see two throne chairs under the portraits of King George III and Queen Charlotte. The chair on the left was made for the Prince of Wales when he visited in 1860. The chair on the right was made for Queen Elizabeth when she visited during the Royal Tour of Canada in 1939. The Queen last visited Nova Scotia in 2010; a portrait of her during that visit is the large, gold framed painting on the right wall.

Our last stop in the Province House was the Legislative Library.

The Legislative Library opened in 1862. Before becoming the library, it was the original Supreme Court chamber. Head Librarian David McDonald said he has literally touched every book in the 24,000-volume library during his 20 years of working there.

After touring the Province House, we headed back to the campground and packed up to begin our 2-day journey northwest to Quebec. The next morning, we hit the road and noticed a difference in our usually laid-back feline…

Frankie, for the first time in our travels, decided to commandeer the co-pilot seat.
Ziggy was unceremoniously relegated to the floor while Jay’s new co-pilot slept instead of navigating, which is traditionally the co-pilot’s job.

We made it to Moncton, New Brunswick, where Jay stretched his legs while I took a gym break at one of the few Planet Fitness locations in Atlantic Canada.

Back on the road, Frankie unleashed another surprise and sat on the dash for a front-row seat of the drive from Moncton to Woodstock, New Brunswick.

By this time, both dogs were extremely concerned. They didn’t know what tricks Frankie would pull next. Frankie quietly stared at them both with a cool calmness that filled the canines with cascading dread.

Under Frankie’s gaze, the dogs nervously paced the narrow path through Tinkerbell’s interior. Soon, we found a welcoming Walmart on the west side of New Brunswick in a small town called Woodstock. Frankie approved the stop, and we settled in for the evening.

Frankie was getting bolder with each passing minute. He began swatting at Jay as he washed Tink’s windshield. The dogs watched with deep trepidation. If Frankie was taking on the driver of a 55,000-pound machine, it would be nothing for the evil cat to ruthlessly fell two lap dogs.

Austin begged me to take him outside for relief from Frankie’s authoritarian moves.

Ahhhhh! Play time! Fetch with a tennis ball was exactly what the doctor ordered for Austin’s anxiety.
Meanwhile, Ziggy grabbed his emotional support squeaker (from a dog toy), and begged Jay to protect him from the sinister monster prowling the bus.

After a quick trip inside Walmart, Jay and I returned to the bus, which Frankie had diabolically transformed into Tink’s Tomb of Torture.

The look in poor Austin’s terrified eyes says it all…

Somehow, we all managed to sleep and by morning, Frankie was back to his docile self. The dogs breathed a sigh of relief as we drove out of the Walmart in Woodstock and headed on to Quebec for our next Canadian adventure!


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One response to “A Quick Stop in Halifax & Frankie’s Reign of Terror”

  1. It is so fun to learn about these places’ histories. Thanks for your research. Who knew that Frankie could be “Frankie the Terrible”. Hope the pups are OK

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